«Burgundy?»

Three crimson wine emojis. 

“Is it good for teenagers?” 

Crying with laughter face. 

The above textual content alternate with my Parisian good friend Pascale was not very reassuring.

As I studied a map of Burgundy whereas planning a trip with my 10-year-old son, Lucas, most of the place names seemed unusually acquainted. Chablis, Pouilly-Fuissé, Puligny-Montrachet, Pommard: it was like perusing the wine checklist of a flowery French restaurant. I had by no means been to Burgundy (a.okay.a. La Bourgogne), however certainly there was extra to the region than grands crus and Michelin-starred eating places? Might a tour of its byways and backwaters provide rural respite for this harried mother and her screen-addled son?

Arriving in Burgundy

After a whirlwind 48 hours in Paris—the place we strolled wide-eyed alongside the Seine, ate our physique weight in steak frites, and witnessed a wedding proposal on the high of the Eiffel Tower—Lucas and I set off by prepare from the Paris-Bercy station. On a Saturday morning in August, it appeared as if each Parisian left within the metropolis was amassed on the station platforms, determined to flee. So far as I may inform, we have been the one foreigners on the 2½-hour path to Clamecy, a market city in central Burgundy. At every cease, extra individuals scrambled off, and fewer climbed aboard. At one station, a guard hollered one thing in French and all of the remaining passengers jumped off the prepare and squeezed into the entrance carriage. Moderately just like the medieval villages that flecked the tidy inexperienced panorama, even the prepare was getting smaller. Clamecy was clearly off the overwhelmed observe, even for Parisian weekenders.

Three Days in Clamecy

Certainly, this sleepy little city was so unprepared for its trickle of summer time guests that there hadn’t been a single rental automotive obtainable throughout our go to. My resourceful cousin Suzanne—a New Yorker who moved to Paris greater than 20 years in the past, then decamped to a hamlet exterior Clamecy through the pandemic—had provide you with an answer: she rented a white cargo van for our three-day keep. Stylish it was not, however what enjoyable to squeeze into the entrance cabin and survey our new environment from this lofty perch. 

“We’re in Burgundy, however not the flamboyant half,” Suzanne deadpanned as we drove previous Clamecy’s half-timbered buildings. There was a beautiful, lived-in really feel to the lopsided alleys, which have been appointed with all of the necessities of Gallic life: a tabac, a flea market, a Gothic church, a put up workplace, a secondhand bookstore, a chocolaterie, and a few cafés and bakeries. Just a few canine walkers strolled alongside the grassy banks of the Yonne River; the one different visitors was the occasional barge or a bicycle freewheeling alongside the embankment. 

With round 800 miles of rivers and canals, Burgundy has the most important community of inland waterways in France. It’s splendid for boating, and well-maintained towpaths make it wonderful for biking, too. For about 4 centuries, beginning within the mid-1400s, Clamecy was a affluent heart of the timber commerce, because of its location on the confluence of the Yonne and the Canal du Nivernais. Beech and oak logs felled within the Morvan Forest have been fixed collectively and floated alongside the Yonne, then up the Seine to gas the fires of the rising inhabitants of Paris.

These wooden “trains” have been steered by flotteurs, or raftsmen, who used wood poles to maneuver them like gondoliers. The perilous journey to Paris took as much as 11 days; the raftsmen then needed to trudge again to Clamecy on foot. Within the mid nineteenth century railways started to exchange the rafts. The final flottage left Clamecy in 1923. A century later, we spied two brightly coloured rowing boats stuffed with males, poking one another with poles. They have been making ready for a riverine jousting contest, commemorating the aquatic feats of their ancestors.

All 116 locks alongside the Canal du Nivernais are nonetheless operated by an éclusier: a lockkeeper who manually opens and closes the cumbersome iron gates. On the quayside in Clamecy, we watched one deftly deal with the cranks and valves, flooding the holding bay with a rush of water to permit a barge to proceed its journey. Among the previous lockkeeper’s cottages alongside the canal at the moment are occupied by painters and potters, who promote their wares to passing vacationers. 

Artists of all types have been impressed by the area’s mild landscapes and austere structure, and virtually each village has a museum commemorating some native luminary or different. Over the course of a languid lengthy weekend, we admired Artwork Deco posters by graphic artist Charles Loupot in Clamecy’s Romain Rolland Museum of Artwork & Historical past; marveled at Colette’s assortment of paperweights and pressed butterflies (and her succession of unlikely lovers) on the writer’s namesake museum in St.-Sauveur-en-Puisaye, the charming village the place she grew up; and have been astonished by the Picassos, Kandinskys, and Mirós on the Musée Zervos, in Vézelay—an unimaginable assortment that belonged to the critic and editor Christian Zervos, who printed the seminal journal Cahiers d’Artwork. When he died, Zervos bequeathed the artwork to his beloved city. 

Curiously, the Zervos Museum is usually missed by the day-trippers traipsing as much as the hilltop Basilica of Ste.-Marie-Madeleine, which has been a pilgrimage web site for greater than 1,000 years. Its vaulted abbey, with its ghostly sculptures and stained-glass home windows, is profoundly transferring, however I discovered the unbroken vistas of rolling pastures, remoted farmhouses, and scattered hamlets to be equally stirring. Lucas was much less impressed by the surroundings. Church buildings and museums will not be a 10-year-old boy’s concept of an excellent time. 

To make issues worse, we had missed the 12–2 p.m. lunch slot strictly noticed by many eating places in France’s smaller cities and cities. Fortunately, Suzanne had one other nice concept: we’d drive to the closest guinguette. In summer time, social life revolves round these riverside cafés-cum-cabarets, the place sustenance comes with musical leisure and alternatives for swimming. At La Guinguette de Coulanges, the quick meals had a distinctly native taste: as a substitute of sizzling canine, we ate andouillettes (a sausage full of pork tripe), and the burgers got here with ratatouille and onion confit. (Underneath new possession as of February, the guinguette now makes a speciality of crêpes and galettes.) 

As we ate, we watched a few seniors burning up the plein-air dance flooring, quickstepping by means of well-rehearsed routines to Elvis and Chuck Berry whereas toddlers excessive on sugary soda freestyled within the wings. Locals chattered over $3 glasses of kir, whereas the youthful set messed about in kayaks or swung from a rope into the cool inexperienced river. 

If the ballroom dancing was surprising, the night’s leisure in Clamecy was much more stunning. Round nightfall, we joined a motley crew of locals in a riverside clearing to observe a riotous efficiency by Les Rustines de l’Ange, a skirt-clad band of accordion gamers whose repertoire included rousing cowl variations of AC/DC’s “Freeway to Hell” and the Insanity ska basic “One Step Past.” 

The subsequent day, we have been higher ready to forestall noon meltdowns. After a sluggish breakfast of croissants and low at Suzanne’s lovely, antique-filled residence, the place we have been staying, we stocked up with provisions for a picnic. On the vigorous market in Quarré-les-Tombes we picked up pavé du Morvan (an air-dried pork sausage coated in seasonings), gougères (puffy cheese pastries), inexperienced olives, baguettes, and buttery blackcurrant tarts. Lucas was diverted by a deal with—waffles with chocolate and hazelnut unfold—at one of many sunny cafés on the sq., whereas I trawled the market stalls that have been promoting straw baskets, Moroccan slippers, and domestically made pocket knives.

Suitably fortified, we pressed onward to Guédelon, the place a madcap troupe of quarrymen and stonemasons, tilers and joiners, blacksmiths and carters are constructing a citadel utilizing solely instruments and strategies that have been obtainable within the thirteenth century. The whole lot from the mortar to the rope has been handmade on the dusty web site. (This wildly formidable experiment, which started in 1997, is the topic of a BBC TV collection, Secrets and techniques of the Fortress. Among the abilities discovered at Guédelon have been additionally utilized to rebuilding Notre Dame after the 2019 hearth.) Seeing this huge collective enterprise take form in actual time—a lot of it by trial and error—was like witnessing historical past in reverse.

Later, by means of Suzanne’s connections, we obtained a backstage tour of one other collective labor of affection: La Boule d’Or, an deserted auberge in Clamecy that has been remodeled into an artists’ residency and guesthouse by 4 mates, with assist from a military of volunteers recruited on TikTok.

“The concept had been germinating for years,” Boris Lévy, a soft-spoken cinematographer from Paris, instructed me over a beer within the backyard, which is about in a disused limestone quarry. Limestone was used to construct the Twelfth-century chapel on the grounds, which now hosts acoustic gigs and pop-up dinners. Lévy discovered the derelict property on Le Bon Coin, the French equal of Craigslist. Its easy visitor rooms are furnished with flea-market finds. “It isn’t a classical resort; it’s extra of a cultural house that celebrates the significance of group,” Lévy stated. “A spot the place you may meet like-minded individuals within the kitchen as a substitute of ordering room service.” 

I used to be already plotting a return journey to remain at La Boule d’Or; however at that second, Lucas, a born bon vivant, was prepared for some room service. In planning this journey, I’d enlisted the assistance of one among T+L’s A-List travel advisors, Marc Bonte, whose staff at French Side Travel helped dream up an itinerary that might please each me and Lucas.

On the third day, we swapped Suzanne and our cargo van for “status chauffeur” Erick Gayet and his Mercedes-Benz V-Class limousine and set off for one of many area’s most luxurious inns. A beefy Bourguignon in a navy blazer and blue suede sneakers, Gayet patiently fielded my questions as we glided down the freeway to Saulieu. 

Subsequent Cease: Saulieu

Roughly in the midst of Burgundy, the city of Saulieu has been a staging put up for vacationers between northern and southern Europe since Roman occasions. In the present day it’s the gateway to the Morvan Regional Pure Park, a wonderful swath of granite peaks, mountain lakes, and woodlands threaded with climbing and biking trails. This being France, the good outside comes with a temple of gastronomy, within the type of Le Relais Bernard Loiseau. Named after the celebrated chef who was an inspiration for the Pixar film Ratatouille, this supremely civilized resort is immediately owned and managed by Loiseau’s household.

Established in 1875, the previous teaching inn (or relais) is a bastion of old school artwork de vivre. A courtly supervisor, Charles Manderveld, welcomed me as “Madame Aouar,” which made me really feel far more subtle than plain previous Ms. Howard.

“Relais cities have been seven to eight leagues aside, the space a horse may journey in a single day,” Manderveld defined as he confirmed us across the property. Even the latest additions—like our Cocoon Suite, with its decadent pink-marble rest room and crisply made mattress enclosed inside sliding wicker doorways—felt reassuringly strong and comfortable. Sculpted frogs spouted water into the swimming pool on the finish of the backyard. Within the cellar, Manderveld identified the empty bottles of outrageously costly wine that Loiseau had as soon as quaffed along with his friends at a marble tasting desk. “Is that the place they do massages?” Lucas requested. “No, however there’s a three-story spa for that,” Manderveld replied with a smile. 

Le Relais Bernard Loiseau’s wood-clad spa payments itself as a “multisensory universe.” Shimmering tiles, showers with a rainforest soundtrack, and purple lighting gave it a wellness-disco impact, a lot to Lucas’s delight. He was the one baby racing excitably between the “effervescent seaside,” “geyser,” and “gooseneck bathe,” however the middle-aged bathers nonchalantly throwing buckets of ice over their heads didn’t appear to thoughts.

Refreshed, we took a stroll round Saulieu. Its native museum is devoted to François Pompon, a scholar of Rodin whose life-size sculptures of bears and bulls are dotted round city. We adopted a path of arrows embedded within the sidewalks that directs guests to noteworthy landmarks. I used to be distracted by the various antiques retailers, till one arrow led us to the large crimson door of the Basilica of St.-Andoche. There have been no different guests, however up within the gallery, somebody was belting out a hymn on the blue and gold organ, charging the house with a swell of emotion. 

At dinner, our fresh-faced waiter revealed that he was the church organist; it was exhausting to fathom that such a slight younger man may produce such highly effective music. I had been secretly relieved to be taught that the resort’s Michelin two-starred restaurant, La Côte d’Or, was closed that evening, as I used to be undecided whether or not Lucas’s desk manners have been as much as the problem. The atmosphere within the bistro of Le Relais was relaxed, the room buzzing with French diners and their immaculately behaved youngsters.

Against this, my younger hoodlum mopped up béarnaise sauce along with his fingers and squealed when the dessert trolley was wheeled over, however there was not a lot as a raised eyebrow from the unflappable employees. Very similar to the service, the cooking was exact and faultless, and the transient wine checklist was completely on level. When my trio of local cheeses arrived I used to be too preoccupied with my Crémant de Bourgogne to pay them correct consideration, so as a substitute Lucas dug in, spooning the intensely gooey Époisses with gusto.

 It was exhausting to bid farewell to the ministrations of the maître d’ within the resort’s sun-dappled breakfast room, however I used to be on a mission to remain at each a relais and a château. For our final evening, we had booked one of many 4 rooms on the Château de St.-Aubin, within the Côte de Beaune, the place among the world’s most prized white wines are produced. 

Final Cease: Driving by means of Côte de Beaune

En route, Gayet steered a cease at MuséoParc Alésia, an interactive museum on the location of an epic Gallo-Roman battle in 52 B.C. Designed by Swiss architect Bernard Tschumi, the putting round museum is the antithesis of Guédelon: historical past is introduced vividly to life by means of 3-D puzzles, animations, and video video games. I felt like I used to be stepping inside an Asterix cartoon—an excellent means of bringing historical past to life for my comic-book-fanatic son.

A ten-minute drive from Alésia, we fast-forwarded to the Center Ages. Formally designated as one of the crucial lovely villages in France, Flavigny-sur-Ozerain is a fascinating patchwork of pale stone homes with painted wood shutters. Most of Burgundy’s medieval villages appear to be film units, however Flavigny actually was the placement for Chocolat, the schmaltzy 2000 romance starring Johnny Depp and Juliette Binoche. In actual life, the village is known for a special sort of confection: the anise-flavored bonbons, produced with the identical recipe since 1591, at Les Anis de Flavigny. On a tour of the transformed Benedictine abbey, we noticed 1000’s of candies rattling round in copper vats as they have been being squirted with essence of violet, rose, or citron. Afterward, we obtained our sugar repair within the retro tearoom and present store. 

As we continued south, untamed landscapes gave solution to neatly parceled vineyards. At nightfall, we rolled into the village of St.-Aubin, the place tractors have been parked exterior modest vignerons’ homes. Gayet deposited our baggage exterior the Château de St.-Aubin, however there was no one round. So we wandered throughout the courtyard to Maison Prosper Maufoux, the property vineyard, and snagged the final desk at Prosper, the winery’s glass-walled restaurant. 

A full moon rose over the vines as we tucked in to completely pink veal and puréed potatoes as fluffy as whipped cream. Époisses made one other look as a custardy foam oozing right into a “chutney” of julienned carrots and caramelized hazelnuts. You possibly can simply bankrupt your self on the wine checklist, however I struck gold on my first strive with a glass of Clos du Château, one of the best Chardonnay I’ve ever tasted. 

“It’s not likely a citadel,” Lucas stated as he surveyed the scene. “However no less than there’s a pool.” Lucas had imagined a moat and drawbridge, however he definitely wasn’t complaining. Our baggage was stuffed with sweet. He had acquired a style for smelly cheese, and I had developed a harmful penchant for advantageous wine. In brief: regardless of my preliminary misgivings, Burgundy was a triumph. Three popping cork emojis, 5 star emojis, and a complete lot of tricolor flags. 

A model of this story first appeared within the June 2025 situation of Journey + Leisure below the headline «Burgundy … However Maintain the Wine.»